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It was a bit of a black and white day when we visited the Ardbeg Distillery: the buildings were Islay white, but most other things including the clouds were black. Nevertheless the distillery complex managed to maintain the refined dignity of a maiden aunt, completely in keeping with an organisation owned by the Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton group. There is a fine cafe where you can take lunch or have tea and scones  … and then work your way through a tray full of sample single malts. Delicious.